Timing Chain and Gears Step by Step
Step-1: Smooth it Out
Smooth the snout of the crank with emery cloth and run a tap down the threads before installing the crankshaft gear. This will ensure smooth assembly and an accurate torque reading.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
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Step-2: Install the Timing Gears and Chain
Rotate the crankshaft so that the keyway for the timing gear is facing up. Slide the crankshaft gear onto the crankshaft, aligning the tooth with the dot so that it will slide over the keyway. (If you are using a multi-indexed sprocket like the one on the left, be sure that the slot marked zero is the one you are aligning with the key on the crankshaft.) Place the timing chain onto the cam gear and then over the crankshaft gear as you slide the lower gear over the keyway and into place. Slide the camshaft gear onto the cam, aligning the hole in the gear with the dowel in the front of the cam. Check and make sure that the dots on the cam gear and crank sprocket are lined up.
Step-3: Install Fuel Pump Eccentric and Oil Slinger
Install the fuel pump eccentric and retaining bolt into the front of the camshaft and torque the bolt to 40 to 45 ft-lbs. Apply a coating of white grease or assembly lube to the face of the fuel pump eccentric to avoid wear during startup. Don’t forget to replace the oil slinger on the crankshaft and butt it against the bottom timing gear.
Most cam manufacturers provide cam installation and degreeing instruction in great detail with their cam packages. The manufacturers of the degree wheel kits also provide these instructions. Please consult the manufacturer’s recommendations when degreeing your camshaft. (Summit Racing)
Timing Chain Cover, Vibration Damper and Water Pump
Step-1: Grease the Timing Cover Seal
Coat the crankshaft seal with a thin coat of white grease to aid installation. Note that the coating of grease is thin enough in this photo for the red metal shoulder portion of the seal to show through. Align the seal in the opening and then using a soft mallet tap the seal into place in the timing chain cover, alternating as you go until the seal has fully seated into the cover.
Step-2: Use Gasket Sealer
Call me old fashioned, but I prefer the time-honored Indian Head gasket shellac to seal gaskets that surround water jackets such as those from the timing cover to block and water pump to timing cover. The fact that this product has been around for at least five decades (that I know of) is a testament to its effectiveness.
Step-3: Note Rubber Seal on Timing Cover Bottom
The bottom of the timing cover is machined for a rubber seal that contacts the oil pan. There is an identical seal that fits into a groove in the rear main bearing cap to seal the back of the oil pan. Fel-Pro recommends using a quick-drying adhesive to hold these seals in place during installation and I have found that 3M weather strip and gasket sealant works very well for this.
Step-4: Seal Water Jacket Bolt Hole (Important!)
Before installing the timing chain cover and water pump, take note that this lower bolt hole extends into the water jacket. A water leak may result if sealant is not applied to this bolt when installed. It’s also a good idea to install the intake manifold on the engine before you bolt on the water pump. Doing so will allow you to easier fit the bypass hose between the pump and the intake manifold.
Step-5: Mark TDC
Prior to installing the freshly painted damper, I use white paint (automotive touch-up paint works well) to mark TDC. Then, I add paint marks 90 degrees apart on the damper to assist in setting the valves. Note: This is a perfect example of why photos and/or notes should be taken during disassembly and referred to frequently when reassembling the engine. It seems that I painted the damper engine color when indeed it should be painted black. This will have to be corrected.
Step-6: Install Crankshaft Sleeve
The crankshaft sleeve aligns with a keyway and seats firmly into the timing cover seal. A light coating of oil or white grease will ease installation. The damper is kept from rotating on the crankshaft by this key that fits in a groove in the snout of the crank. Be sure that the key is free of burrs and fits smoothly into the groove.
Step-7: Install Damper Bolt
Install the damper bolt and washer, and torque to 70 to 90 ft-lbs. If the crankshaft spins while you’re tightening it, block its rotation with a pry bar between two flywheel bolts inserted in the back of the crank.
Step-8: Install the Accessory Drive Pulley
The accessory drive pulley completes the lower front of the engine. Torque the four bolts holding the pulley to the damper to 25 to 35 ft-lbs.
Written by Charles R. Morris and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc