Step-1: Use Gasket Sealer
I prefer to use a coating of gasket sealer around the water passages in the cylinder heads before installing the intake manifold gaskets. This helps avoid possible leaks.
This Tech Tip is From the Full Book, HOW TO REBUILD BIG-BLOCK FORD ENGINES. For a comprehensive guide on this entire subject you can visit this link:
SHARE THIS ARTICLE: Please feel free to share this post on Facebook / Twitter / Google+ or any automotive Forums or blogs you read. You can use the social sharing buttons to the left, or copy and paste the website link: http://diyford.com/install-intake-manifold-ford-big-block-ford-engine-rebuild/
Step-2: Install the Intake Gaskets
Align the intake manifold gaskets and install the four manifold studs (two at each end of the cylinder heads) to help hold the gaskets in place and align the intake during installation.
Step-3: Take Note of Intake Port Bolt Holes (Important!)
Here is something to remember later on that will affect tuning. The intake ports on these engines are so huge that the bolts for four of the valve cover bolts (two on each head) open into the intake port. If these bolts are left out or removed, it will create a huge vacuum leak.
Step-4: Note Gasket Type
Your intake gasket set normally comes with two end gaskets (both ends are the same on Lima series engines) of either cork or rubber material. The cork gaskets will often have a peel-off adhesive back on one side to affix the gasket to the block.
Step-5: Affix Gaskets
Make sure the block is clean and dry before installing the end gaskets, and then trim the ends as necessary.
Step-6: Apply RTV Sealant
A bead of RTV sealant may be used in place of the end gaskets if you choose. I prefer to use the cork end gaskets with a thin coat of RTV on top of them for a positive seal.
When using RTV, some will inevitably ooze out when the manifold is set down on the engine. You can go back later when the material has dried and trim it with a razor blade for a neater-looking installation.
Step-7: Hand Tighten Intake Manifold Bolts
With the intake manifold in place, thread in all the bolts by hand, snug them, and then torque to 30 ft-lbs following the tightening sequence shown in the Appendix. I make a habit of going back over the bolts to check the torque after the manifold has compressed the gaskets.
Step-8: Install Water Pump
Once the intake manifold is in place, you can bolt on the water pump, installing the bypass hose as you do so. Original tower-type hose clamps replace those that were on our engine when it was removed from the car.
Step-9: Tighten Water Pump Bolts
We opted for a new set of water pump bolts, since some of the originals were quite corroded. The new bolts are delivered with a sealer coating on the threads. Remember we pointed out earlier how certain of the bolts pass through water jackets in the block. Tighten the water pump bolts in stages, alternating as you go to achieve an even seal with the timing cover.
With the assembled and painted long block on the engine stand, we’re getting close to that long-awaited time when the engine will be back in the car.
Step-10: Install Engine Mounts and Brackets
The final step here is to install the engine mounts and brackets on the block. The brackets are marked right and left and the insulators are the same on both sides.
Written by Charles R. Morris and Republished with Permission of CarTech Inc